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| The reason why California native plants are drought
resistant is because they have adapted to the distinct
weather pattern of our state – long dry summers,
with extended rainless periods. As a result they have
developed very deep and elaborate root systems much bigger
in volume than exotic plants. Another California native
plant adaptation is summer dormancy. If there is no water
available, some plants like blue oak and manzanita will
stop growing, waiting for the water nature will eventually
give them. |
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PLANTING
Fall and winter are the best seasons to plant a California native.
This allows the roots to become established before the heat
of the summer.
Native plants will do much better if planted in soil with good
drainage. If the soil is heavy, add sand, gravel or other inert
material. Do not add compost or fertilizer. This would cause
the roots to stay close to the plant instead of going deep and
into the native soil.
Mycorrhizae Fungi are beneficial fungi that attach to the roots,
increasing the absorption area available to the root system.
This improves the plants ability to absorb water and nutrients,
maintain soil structure, and increase resistance to disease
and stress.
We use mycorrhizae inoculants in our soil mix for growing the
plants in containers and we strongly recommend the use of mycorrhizae
tablets when planting your natives.
2 tablets for one gallon plants and 8 tabs for 5 gallon plants.
Put the tablets in the hole touching the roots when planting.
This is particularly important where construction, compaction
or heavy chemical fertilizers have disturbed native soil.
Some native plants especially Matilija poppy, flannel bush,
manzanita, bush poppy and wooly blue curls do not like to have
their roots disturbed. It is important to plant them very carefully
as follows:
1. Prepare the site; add mycorrhizae tablets
in the hole.
2. With a utility knife, cut out the bottom of the container,
leave
the bottom in place and when you
place the plant in the hole,
slip away the cut out bottom.
3. Cut a slit in the container on each side from the bottom
to the collar.
4. Gather the soil loosely around the cut container, and then
cut
through the collar on one side and slip the container out.
WATERING
Native plant roots need to go deep into the soil to become drought
and disease resistant so it is important to water deeply.
A good watering is slow and long. A drip system is best, which
conserves water and discourages competing weeds. Try to water
1 foot away from the plant crown. Native plants are very sensitive
at the root crown, if the root crown is damp, harmful bacteria
and fungi will grow.
Water every 6-10 days depending on site and weather for the
1st season.
After the 1st season a deep watering once a month is recommended
for most native plants. This should prolong the blooming period
and avoid summer dormancy.
Some species are more sensitive to soil fungus problems. Madrone,
oaks, manzanita, flannel bush, toyons, bush poppy, matilija
poppy, ceanothus, coffeeberry, wooly blue curl, carpenteria
are some examples. They should not be planted in summer but
if this is the only option, here is the best way to proceed.
1. Dig the hole deeper and put a piece of
pipe 2-3 ft long and
1.5 -2” in diameter into
the bottom of the hole. The end of the
pipe should be below the roots.
2. Lighten your soil, place the mycorrhizae tablets and cut
the
container and plant as explained
earlier.
3. When you are finished planting, fill up this pipe with gravel
or coarse sand.
4. Water the plant through the pipe.
Remember, good drainage is very important
and do not over water!
HAPPY PLANTING!
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